How to correctly use retinoids
Retinoids are a group of substances derived from vitamin A that have significant benefits for the skin, reducing wrinkles, pigmentation, improving skin texture, helping with acne. Their application has several rules that must be followed in the beginning, when the skin is not yet used to them. Otherwise, skin irritation and allergic reactions could occur.
Benefits of retinoids on the skin:
Promote cell renewal: retinoids stimulate cell renewal, which can help improve skin texture and elasticity.
Wrinkle reduction: They help reduce fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen production.
Acne control: Retinoids can regulate skin oil production and help control acne.
Brightening pigmentation: They help reduce hyperpigmentation and pigment spots.
Types of retinoids by effect
Retinoic acid is also naturally found in our skin and is the most potent of the two. It is a pure active substance that requires further transformation in the cells. Due to the highest risk of skin irritation, it is only available by prescription.
Retinal is the strongest form that can be obtained without a doctor's prescription. Because it is only one step away from being converted into retinoic acid, its effect is up to 11 times faster than that of conventional retinol.
Retinol must be converted into retinal in our skin before it can be converted into retinoic acid. Due to the gradual transformation, there is less risk of skin irritation, but the effects come more gradually and slowly.
The esters of retinol (its chemical compounds) are the weakest form. They take the longest time to convert to the active form and therefore have the slowest onset of effects. However, there is the least risk of skin irritation.
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Start gradually
Always start with a lower concentration: when starting to use retinoids, choose products with a lower concentration to minimise adverse reactions. Proceed gradually. Start with once or twice a week and gradually increase the frequency if your skin responds well. Retinol products are sold in varying concentrations, so if you're starting out, choose the lowest concentration. Your skin needs time to get used to it.
Application on dry skin
Apply retinoids to dry skin. Retinoids can be irritating and should therefore be applied to dry skin. After cleansing and toning, wait until the skin is completely dry.
Light sensitivity
Apply retinoids only in the evening. They increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight. Irritation could occur if applied during the day.
Use SPF
Retinoids increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. Use a high SPF sunscreen every day to minimize the risk of a negative reaction to the sun. Without SPF, irritation and pigment spots can be hard and slow to get rid of.
Avoid combining with certain substances
Avoid combining with certain products. Retinoids should not be combined with certain substances such as AHAs or BHAs as this can increase skin irritation. If you want to use fruit acids in your skincare because of their benefits on the skin, such as smoothing and brightening, alternate the days you apply the retinoid and the acids. Take at least a day off between applications and monitor your skin's reactions carefully.